There's still a lot about melanin that science hasn't discovered yet, like how it travels from melanocyte cells (the cells that produce melanin) to skin cells. What we do know, however, makes taking care of your skin a lot easier.
Melanin is a pigment produced in melanocyte cells, contained in specialized cellular vesicles called melanosomes. Dictated by your genes, melanin gives color to your skin, eyes, and hair. It is not the number of melanocytes that determines the color of the pigmentation but rather the differences in the type of melanin produced and the size, number, and packaging of the melanosomes. There are two types of melanin that affect the color of your skin; eumelanin which gives mainly black and brown colors, found in higher levels in darker skin tones, and phaeomelanin which gives reddish colors. More than what determines your skin color, melanin is a defense mechanism created by the body to protect the DNA strands within a cell from ultraviolet radiation (UVR).
Melanin has the ability to act as a protective barrier between the DNA of skin cells as it has the ability to scatter UVR. It also acts as an absorbent filter reducing the amount of UVR penetrating the epidermis by up to 50-75%. Very dark skin tones only allow 7.4% of UVB and 17.5% of UVA to penetrate the epidermis while extremely fair skin tones can have levels as high as 24% of UVB and 55% of UVA passing through. Remember, it is UVB that causes sunburn, its intensity waxing and waning throughout the day, peaking between noon and 2pm. UVA is what causes more permanent damage deep within the epidermis, its intensity remaining the same throughout the day unaffected by time or weather conditions. To protect the DNA of cells from UVR exposure, melanin forms a shell over the DNA, which looks like an umbrella. This collection of melanin is what causes darker areas of pigmentation on the skin ranging from tans to sun spots and age spots.
Free radicals
Melanin, particularly eumelanin, acts as a scavenger of free radicals, collecting and storing them. Free radicals cause irreparable damage to cell membranes, breaking down cells and leading to visible signs of early aging such as wrinkles, sagging skin, and pigmentation. Although it is not widely known that melanin helps reduce UV-induced free radical damage, antioxidants are commonly used to combat free radicals.
Antioxidants work by donating one of their own electrons to the free radical, neutralizing it. Vitamins A, E, and C are commonly used as sources of antioxidants in skin care products. The secret is to use them together, along with oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPCs), to better fight destructive free radicals.
The reason is that together they can lend each other electrons, pooling their resources to neutralize free radicals more effectively.
Additionally, when skin has suffered extreme sun damage, it can take up to seven days for the skin's vitamin A receptors to recover.
That's why it's always important to use a variety of vitamins, nutrients, and minerals to treat your skin. There's no single magic bullet when it comes to skin care.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
UVA rays may not cause visible burns to the skin, but they still incite inflammation and trauma, leading to what is known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). After years of sun exposure without visible damage, age spots can suddenly appear later in life, usually on the hands, arms, neck, and face. This hidden pigmentation can form as early as age fifteen, and as we age, it develops into age spots, also known as lentigines, creating dysfunction in the epidermis. Lentigines shrink and flatten the surface of the area in the lower layers of the skin, preventing the capillaries that would bring oxygen- and nutrient-rich blood from reaching the upper layers of the epidermis. This dysfunction within the epidermis and dermis differentiates lentigines from freckles (ephelides) because they do not prevent the skin from functioning optimally.
UVR is not the only cause of HPI, any trauma to the skin can cause excess melanin production as the skin reacts defensively. A reddish to purplish color often forms around healing wounds, popped pimples, inflamed acne, and reactive skin conditions. This is normal. However, melanin is a defense mechanism and if the skin's systems are out of sync, it can trigger unnecessary melanin release. The body does not differentiate between threats and attacks on its systems and those that are not.
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To maintain healthy skin and prevent the appearance of new pigment spots, it is crucial to adopt a suitable skincare routine. Use products containing antioxidants, such as vitamin C, to help neutralize free radicals caused by UV rays and pollution. Kurku-ma skincare, enriched with natural ingredients such as turmeric and yellow clay, is specially formulated to protect and nourish your skin.
If dark spots are already present, Kurku-ma’s Anti-Dark Spot Radiance Serum can help reduce them thanks to its formula rich in lightening active ingredients. Used regularly, this serum can even out skin tone and reduce the visibility of dark spots.
In addition to these treatments, a weekly mask like the "Anti-Dark Spot" Turmeric Mask can also do wonders for the skin. It helps to gently exfoliate, brighten the complexion and improve the texture of the skin.
Pigmentation can also be caused by hormonal fluctuations, a phenomenon much more common in women than in men. During pregnancy, estrogen levels increase significantly, which can cause a large, mask-like area of pigmentation around the face, known as melasma. This pigmentation affects the forehead, cheekbones, as well as the areas around the mouth and chin. It is said that women who are pregnant with girls are more likely to experience this type of passive pigmentation. Melasma usually disappears shortly after the baby is born, but if the skin is already prone to pigmentation, this may not be the case. A holistic approach to skin revision treatments is necessary, taking into account both hormonal levels and skin dysfunctions.
Pigmentation, whether genetic, post-inflammatory or passive freckles, can be extremely stubborn. However, it is possible to reduce it with intensive treatments and a well-adapted skincare routine. Prevention remains the simplest and least expensive method. To achieve this, it is essential to keep the skin in good working order, protect yourself from the sun by covering up and applying sunscreen daily, even indoors.
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